How can I improve my copper solder joints?
Also, rate how I used 3/8 fitting
How can I improve my copper solder joints?
have you been using flux before applying the solder to the joints? and making sure both parts being soldered are heated properly before solder is applied is key
I want something like this
>have you been using flux before applying the solder to the joints?
Yes... I think you can't solder without flux at all. Like solder will not even stick.
>and making sure both parts being soldered are heated properly before solder is applied is key
True. I think you should heat a pipe a bit before heating the joint, so gap is smaller
Anyway, I can solder pipe so it is water-tight (this is not rocket science, apply flux (more is better), apply solder, and don't care about solder drips or excess solder, but I want perfect looking job)
1. have a clean damp cloth on hand.
2.clean the shit out of it.
3. light coating of flux on pipe.
4. slide joint together.
5. focus heat on fitting not the pipe.
6. dab the solder on the joint.
7. when you see it get sucked into the fitting quickly move the solder around the joint.
8. remove heat and wipe joint with damp cloth. most excess solder will be wiped off.
Use flux on clean pipes. Don't just heat at the seam. Solder works through capillary action like a paper towel. Heat about a quarter of an inch from the seam, and let the solder draw in to the joint. That way it doesn't just bead around the lip of the joint. Practice makes perfect. The more comfortable you get, the better you will do.
wrong board
This is exactly what I did (except I didn't remove excess solder with cloth).
Still not as perfect as I want.
I mean, it soldered just fine (on the inside of fitting and pipe I can see solder all around), but it is not perfect.
Yes. I mean, my joints don't leak, but they look awful. This is the best I made.
Previous were just a mess like pic related (since I didn't care about looks and solder acts like Teflon).
/diy/ is dead, as always
That's pretty wholesome thread subject.
It's nice to see.
Maybe if you tried starting the solder a bit lower on the tube then while heating the lead, move other part in it so it can cover it.
... but personally, I'm not an expert on welding.
Also, does lead-free solder behave differently?
I tried all this with 50/50 since it is cheaper, and thing I soldered before was for backyard needs, and I don't care about lead there.
the problem most people have is that they think soldering is like welding. most people try to lay a bead of flux like they are using a welder. The trick to soldering is understanding that you want the solder to be between the pipe and fitting.
1) prep the pipe well using emery cloth / wire brush. both the interior and exterior. apply flux to all parts adequately.
2) Heat the pipe and joint up to the point where the solder will turn to a liquid upon immediate contact. a good indicator is usually when the flux begins to lightly bubble.
3) hold the flame on the joint so that when the solder is applied to the pipe, capillary action immediately wicks the solder in between the pipe + fitting.
this is the secret to getting a good clean looking solder with minimal visible solder. on something like a 1/2 copper pipe you should only need 2-3 quick dabs of solder - too much can lead to other issues (e.g. a blockage in the line).
Same here, this site felt normal for a few minutes. Nice reminder that a lot of anons on here are high functioning members of society who switch it on/off
maybe you should try a more suitable trade:
librarian
hairdresser
etc.
Well, am a mechanic and pretty noob regarding welding and soldering.
But as other anons pointed out, your main focus should be to treat melted metal as a kind of glue. Or at the very least this is what the crazy asshole that taught me told me.
You see, when you heat any metal to some point it becomes molten metal. This last just a fraction of second. You should aim to use that molten metal to do your work. Welding/soldering is a very precise job. Same goes for mechanics.
A single milimeter can literally fuck a piece.
Don’t use too much heat, just after the flux starts bubbling your joint will accept solder
Also, I find that an oxy fuel rig with a brazing tip works a lot better than MAPP gas. It's cleaner burning, and allows for more precise heating. Beyond that it's all technique that comes with patience and practice.
I feel pathetic reading all these replies, I'm 20 and don't know shit about any of this stuff, unlike my dad who is a jack of all trades. I can barely do basic construction work :(
Lol fag took the welding career meme seriously
True, I mean, I have been soldering electronics for a long time. So pipes aren't difficult to solder for me, but I want perfection. "No leaks" is not sufficient for my needs, and no plumber will ever try to make joint look good.
> too much can lead to other issues (e.g. a blockage in the line).
True, especially if you use a lot of flux.
I try to heat as little as possible, because flux otherwise gets black and it will not solder for shit.
For me butane works best, very forgiving.
Sure, if you need to make joint in 3 seconds you need something hotter and more powerful like propane or MAPP or oxy.
I will try oxy-acetylene one day. I really like an idea of welding steel with this shit.
It is time to DIY my friend.
stop being a pussy, go watch this old house or some shit. Most people in construction are half an idiot - none of this stuff is really that hard its just a matter of learning the steps involved.
Welding is hard, I can't weld for shit.
Soldering is easy
True. Or your local alternative (since things are different in different places).
Welding with an oxy fuel rig is very relaxing, but I like the sparks and sizzle of arc welding.
Dude, just watch on Jewtube how to do things and learn the key concepts.
Construction ain't hard to learn. What it does take is some good posture and muscles if you have to mix concrete or cement on the damn floor or some other kind of shit work.
But the mixes are usually easy to do and remember. Just as an example, concrete is mostly from 1/4 to 1/3 of cement. The rest is stones, sand or pebbles. Bigger stones are used for bigger projects and it will be a hell of a structure. Seriously, breaking down a damn concrete/stone wall is hell.
You body gets used to it and the knowledge behind everything is kinda obvious once you learn it. Where most people fail is being cheapstakes or lazy fucks.
I don't like arc welding, since all my electrodes were wet, and arc was unstable at low current, crank current a bit more and you make holes.
Same as any practical skill, you'll get better at it the more you do. Just keep practicing and trying out little tips you pick up to find what works best.
t. Getting pretty good at my aluminium tig now, can comfortably weld 2mm sheet
Bruh a trick I learned in shipyards to dry out rods quickly is to stick it to the steel until the rod starts to smoke then break it off.
Works in a pinch.
>not swedging
>not deburring the pipes
>not cleaning the pipes heavily before hand
>not heating the joints properly before hand
>not having the right amount of solder out and bent
>not using a damp cloth to clean up afterwards
Amateur problems, amateur work.
Problem was I didn't have materials back then, because parents would not buy me iron angles or shit. I couldn't even experiment.
And auto-darkening helmet was annoying at best, I wish I had manual one, really.
I was too scared to burn the welding inverter.
>not swedging
This is more for HVAC, since they have annealed copper or how it is called.
>not deburring the pipes
This is really important. My cutter is new, so it is not an issue, but it still rolls material inside.
Also I found that you can score the pipe and then just break it, it will give cleaner edges.
>not having the right amount of solder out and bent
You don't need this really, if you've soldered electronics, you can judge amount rather easily.
>not using a damp cloth to clean up afterwards
This. Man I hate when plumbers leave flux on, it makes pipe ugly and green.
for me what works is wedging the steel collars into the hot pit until it cooled, then shaving excess weight off before sanding and placing into the designated fitted driver shaft until bolting