Ok so Can we discuss how to decontaminate our filters? I can’t find enough to swap them out every two weeks for a supply run. I heard putting them in oven at 158 degrees for 30 mins will kill the virus?
Any one have any ideas? UVC bulbs are expensive and hard to come by. But I heard UVC light kills everything after a certain period of time. Any other ideas ?
Other urls found in this thread:
n95decon.org
amazon.com
nsmedicaldevices.com
fda.gov
epa.gov
viroxanimalhealth.com
utrf.tennessee.edu
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>Ok so Can we discuss how to decontaminate our filters?
expose to sun rays, dipshit
....... yah can I get someone with an actual triple digit iq to answer. How’s the weather in Tel Aviv schlomo.
So
Anyways like I was saying the ozone filters most UVC rays u filthy kike how will sunlight kill it dumb fuck
Spray it with bleach and leave it out in the sun to dry.
>I heard putting them in oven at 158 degrees for 30 mins will kill the virus?
That will melt them, you dope.
UVC also burns plastic.
If you have a filter that is just rated for particulates, not vapours or gas, then use misted medicine cabinet grade hydrogen peroxide to clean them.
Unironically this. 99.9% isopropyl should do the trick too
Instead of posting some slag, post the type of mask.
The oven is the best way.
Soaking/wetting will open the fibers and ruin them.
If your mask has plastic inserts, it depends on what type of plastic is used on whether or not heat will fuck them.
Test one in the oven at 70C (160F), and see what happens.
If the plastic softens then don't do it on a second one.
get 14 masks
use 1 per day and leave them outside when you r done
after 2 weeks you can reuse the 1st mask as the virus should have died by then on the dry surface
Nobody ever mentions ozone. Is it considered the same as UV?
fpbp
the virus cant survive more than 3 days, even less when exposed to the outside sun and air
just let them sit and the virus will inactivate
Ozone is a gas. UV is radiation
>That will melt them, you dope.
Actually you are incorrect. The rubber will dry out and loose it elasticity, but no consumer plastic is going to melt at 160F. You are fucking stupid.
UVC does affect plastic differently but plastic designed to be used outside will give you hundreds of hours worth of exposure to intense UV before embrittlement. You fuckers shouldn't be playing with UVC if you don't have a clue because is will give degrade your vision and give you skin cancer if you fuck around with it.
If you want to be pendantic. paint the plastic surfaces with acrylic paint for total UV Protection, the way it is done for car trim.
Context, dumbshit. Is it considered the same for purposes of disinfecting masks is the obvious question here.
bro i don't even wash my hands before I plow into my drive-thru Raisin' Canes chicken and you're over here talking about decontaminating P100 masks what a little faggot bitch
HCQ
Zpak
Zinc
Not.
Even.
Concerned.
t. obese southerner 7 days before dying of covid19
>said increasingly schizo man for the 50th time in 3 a month
Doctor here. You can't decontaminate n95 masks because they are charged, which is the whole point of the filter's effectiveness. Majority of hospitals use UV to sanitize, so that fucks with the charge.
Regular hospital masks are fine, though. UV sanitizes them without fucking with effectiveness, but they aren't as effective as N95 anyway.
>That will melt them, you dope.
Wrong. It doesn't damage them at all. I've done it a few times already with my p100 and basic surgical masks.
I'm a CIH working for a healthcare company trying to get elastomeric respirators as an alternative to N95s.
For elastomeric (half-face, full-face respirators)
Doffing:
1. Only use P100 filters, only use filters with hard plastic outer surface (no pillow/disc cartridges) preferably with top/forward facing air inlets.
2. Wipe down exterior surfaces with 70% isopropyl alcohol wipe or equivalent.
3. wash hands
4. Place vinyl tape or similar over air inlet onto wiped down filters and remove.
5. Place taped filters into ziploc bag, seal, wipe down bag
6. Remove respirator, place in water with gentle detergent (dawn soap or similar can be used)
7. wash hands
8. wash respirator, make sure to get different part including inside of exhalation valve. Wash but don't damage flexible diaphragms on both inhalation and exhalation valves
9. rinse respirator
10. place respirator into water and disinfectant solution for two minutes (reference 29 CFR 1910.134 Appendix B for options and concentrations)
11. rinse respirator thoroughly
12. dry respirator
When you use respirator again and re-use filters:
13. wash hands
14. Inspect respirator, make sure diaphragms are intact, make sure fully assembled
15. don respirator, perform positive and negative pressure seal check
16. retrieve air filter cartridges from bag
17. place filter cartridges and gently remove tape over outlets after attaching each one
18. dispose of tape
19. perform positive and negative seal check
20. wash hands
I removed gloves use and some steps to simplify for average non-trained users
Except there's already FDA approved decon methods for P95 masks senpai.
FFS, I deal with you guys daily, sometimes it's okay to admit you're not up to date on the literature.
>(((FDA)))
I jest, just wanted to shitpost a little.
This morons
>Canes
Not going to Bojangles. Kys nigger.
You really need to pick up a military CBRN manual, it'll help you improve your decon method.
The real bitch is that you're going to want to basically keep the mask on for an 8 hour shift.
Also, .5 to 1% h202 is going to be your friend, it'll kill covid with a wet time of 30 seconds.
>only use filters with hard plastic outer surface (no pillow/disc cartridges)
Why?
Also big brain post: if you have a half or full face respirator you can use duct tape to seal one side off and therefore you only go through half as many filters. Its a little harder to breath through but can double your filter supply timeline.
Your welcome
I'm sorry bby, it's been a triggering few weeks for me.
I work in evidence based medicine / data analysis
Hydroxyl machines are better
Enough time in low oven temperatures (165 fahrenheit) should handle it, that's what I've been doing.
Don't do this if you have a gas range oven, only do it with electrical ovens. Even then, make sure that your stuff is in an oven-safe container and far from any heating element. It's very easy to set fire to your house doing this, if anything accidentally touches the heating element then it can happen.
I can't comment on military type equipment since I've only worked with construction, heavy industry, manufacturing and medical. Hydrogen peroxide has its draw backs and I wouldn't recommend going below 3% with less than 2 minutes. It's not just corona you should be concerned about but general hygiene of the mask. I know 3M suggest you can go one minute with similar bleach water mixture, but I haven't seen cross brand effectiveness comparisons for that.
The pillow type P100s are really meant for welding fumes and to squeeze inside a hood. You can't really isolate potentially contaminated surface areas to avoid getting something from surface that collects all the contaminants.
Only using one filter would both make breathing harder and increase loading on that filter. Better to just handle both properly and breath easier. Depending on what environments you are active in, the filters could last a long time and be re-used multiple times.
yes, coffee is good for me...
>It's not just corona you should be concerned about but general hygiene of the mask. I know 3M suggest you can go one minute with similar bleach water mixture, but I haven't seen cross brand effectiveness comparisons for that.
and I'm stating that a .5% h202 solution is FDA approved as a sanitizer for corona and other nasties, with a thirty second soak time.
You'd theoretically hit the outside with your decon solution, demask, then soap it up, then sani dip it again to be good to go for the next person.
I cringe at the thought of "deconing" N95.
1. They are intended as single use and even without deterioration from decon they will simply break from repeated use.
2. Every decon method will have some damage it does to N95.
To "decon" N95s you have the following choices:
Chemical disinfectant
UV radiation
Ionizing radiation
Heat treatments
Time Cycling
All have there major drawbacks, all except time cycling will do some damage to respirator.
Plasma hydrogen peroxide when done correctly will reduce filter effectiveness by at least 5% and can only be done a handful of times before respirator is useless.
UV light has limited surface penetration and will degrade materials over time.
Time cycling assumes you have seven or more respirators and only use one a day.
Disinfecting N95s is nothing more than a stop-gap and not a very good one since even most professionals don't know how to safely remove them without potentially contaminating themselves and/or damaging respirator.
you can use a hair dryer but it takes like 30 minutes
>.5% h202 solution is FDA approved
I admit I am mostly familiar with EPA, OSHA and CDC guidelines, but I would still say that everything I've read on the topic never goes below 1.5% on hydrogen peroxide unless your using a different application method.
If you had a way to safely use it (due to human toxicity) and thoroughly rinse and dry, then glutaraldehyde is very effective and gentle on soft plastic parts.
You might also be able to increase the effectiveness of some disinfectants using an appropriate surfactant like they do with some isopropyl wipes that include small percentages of other active agents that increases surface contact.
Don't do this. The heat can damage polypropylene fibers in the mask and reduce effectiveness.
You're behind on the literature and are very passionate for things you know nothing about.
1. Please stop conflating respirators and 'disposable' masks.
2. Like I suggested, go read a CBRN manual some day, because you decon a mask SO REMOVING IT DOESN'T SLIME YOU. Once again, very, very passionate about things you don't understand.
3. 'Disposable' masks are now FDA approved for re-use after sanitation via FDA approved methodology, for a total of 20 times.
Here's the approval: fda.gov
Learn to have a little humility.
nigga they don't get hot enough you fucking retard and it was also the end result of an entire study on the best method of disinfection so they could be reused
That's absolutely retarded.
Studies showed 30 mins @165 rendered virus inactive.
In home oven, should be @200 for 40 mins to be safe
Oh, I see you're just a glownigger. In that case, you should stop using any respirator, as they dont work.
Enjoy, I was wrong, it's the EPA, whoops!
epa.gov
Here's the SDS for EPA: 74559-9
viroxanimalhealth.com
.5% hydrogen peroxide is good to go for COVID
He mad
This kills the mask.
Those masks are to prevent you from spreading it, not from getting it. idiot
N95s like picture shown are designed to be single use disposable respirators. The recent guidelines from regulatory agencies allowing re-use are a desperate measure from authorities that no we don't have anywhere near enough supplies. These are almost all ad-hoc measures developed in the last two months to try to extend drastically insufficient stockpiles.
If you want re-usable you have to go real elastomeric respirators or positive pressure systems.
Hair dryers regularly go over 190 degrees, more than enough to unbind thin polypropylene threads inside the N95. Also, do you really want to blast air at a surface that could potentially have virus particles? Its all a recipe for failure.
Interesting. I presume you're using it for different things in an industrial setting, or that's all they trust the idiots to dilute to, desu.
But I mean, you're also trying to prevent slime mold from growing on the things, which is something someone in the medical field is going to immediately notice. I think it's different guidance for the 200# gorillas.
I know that form of mask as a mask. I know respirators as the things that take cartridge filters. I know the disposable masks with exhale valves as disposable respirator (masks).
I'm very aware it's stop-gap, but the science is evidently good to go, and it *is* approved, so it's the current guidance I'm going with.
Weird. Elastomeric respirators are what half the people in the thread mean. I'm tired of reeeing because there's no standardized technology.
Regular hydrogen peroxide requires a contact time of 10 minutes and both h202 and hdox varieties have a contact time of 5 minutes. Unless you are using a high efficiency application method you are still not getting away from that.
Evidently hot air is a possibility, but it appears boiling is the way to go.
utrf.tennessee.edu
I've given you all that you need.
I suggest you follow the filename. I'm out.
A respirator is a device that you wear over your face to remove contaminants from the air you breath in. Further defined in industry to capture most if not all the air you breath in. Everyone who knows anything about it knows that N95s are considered respirators and are separate and different from procedure masks, surgical masks and other. They are designed very specially to filter out 95% or more of contaminants at 0.3 microns.
Molded respirators typically of plastic, rubber like, silicone types of materials that are tight fitting negative pressure systems that pull air through filters are generally referred to as elastomeric respirators. They are also different from possive pressure or supply demand systems that include anything from powered air purifying respirators (PAPRs) (positive pressure) to fire fighter self contained breathing apparatuses (SCBAs) (supply demand).
You're two images don't even have the same CAS. What are you going on about?
70%, some water is needed to destroy the virus
On top of that. You trying to use a reference to a material approved for hard non-porous surfaces and using a non-standard mixture/application.
I think you might be in over your head if you aren't going to take the time to understand the products your using.
Ironically 70% does do better than 99%. The water allows for more surface contact.
Vaporized H202
When I worked for house flippers we used them for getting rid of the stink of elderly people who died and weren't discovered for some time. We used the kind that auto detailers use and let it run in the house for a few days.
